Iac Valve Ford Escape

I have a 2011 ford escape 2.5L and i cant figure out this issue. When at normal operating temp, at idle, turn on the a/c and the idle surges up and down from about 800 down to 500 and back up. Turn off the a/c and its normal about 750rpm. I have changed EVERYTHING on the engine. MAF sensor, new coil packs, plugs, throttle body, egr valve, crank sensor, air filter, new a/c.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto.

I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idle air control valve on this 2002 Ford Escape with the 2-liter 4-cylinder engine. The items you'll need for this are a flat blade screwdriver, 8mm socket and ratchet, and jack and jack stands. Now it's a little hard to show where the idle air control valve is but it's actually down underneath your starter and the throttle body.

This is the harness for it right here. You just reach down from behind using a flat blade screwdriver and just push on that tab and disconnect it. After you've disconnected that, you want to jack up and support the vehicle. To get to that valve, you need to be underneath and reach up right through here right in front of the starter in behind the intake manifold and you should be able to pretty easily feel one of the bolts. Then you can get to the other one. I was able to stick a ratchet with an 8mm socket up in there, get it onto the first bolt, and I've got it loose.

We'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts the rest of the way. Once those 8mm bolts are removed, the idle air control valve will pull down and out. This things goes up in there at such a hard to reach area that rather than using the bolts like this, what I'm actually going to do is I got a couple of studs so I'm going to thread the studs into the engine first, and I'll use a little bit of Loctite on the end. I thread into the engine, and put the studs in first, and then put the valve on there and then put nuts on to hold it. Here's one of the studs with a little bit of thread lock on it. I'll reach up in here and do the top one first. It's a lot easier to just get a stud up in there and thread it on than trying to do the whole thing.

We'll fast forward as he puts the other stud in place. Now the stud's on there. You can just feed the gasket up and then take my valve, and put it up into place. That's probably the most challenging part. Then I'm just going to secure it on there with a couple of nuts rather than the bolts.

We'll fast forward as he puts the other nut in place and then tightens both of those up. That shiny silver cylinder up there is your idle air control valve. You can see it's all set with the new nuts and studs and everything. It's tightened up.

Now you want to go back from up top and then just reconnect the harness. We hope this video helps you out.

Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idle air control valve on this 2002 Ford Escape with the 2-liter 4-cylinder engine. The items you'll need for this are a flat blade screwdriver, 8mm socket and ratchet, and jack and jack stands.
Now it's a little hard to show where the idle air control valve is but it's actually down underneath your starter and the throttle body. This is the harness for it right here. You just reach down from behind using a flat blade screwdriver and just push on that tab and disconnect it.
After you've disconnected that, you want to jack up and support the vehicle. To get to that valve, you need to be underneath and reach up right through here right in front of the starter in behind the intake manifold and you should be able to pretty easily feel one of the bolts. Then you can get to the other one. I was able to stick a ratchet with an 8mm socket up in there, get it onto the first bolt, and I've got it loose. We'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts the rest of the way. Once those 8mm bolts are removed, the idle air control valve will pull down and out.
This things goes up in there at such a hard to reach area that rather than using the bolts like this, what I'm actually going to do is I got a couple of studs so I'm going to thread the studs into the engine first, and I'll use a little bit of Loctite on the end. I thread into the engine, and put the studs in first, and then put the valve on there and then put nuts on to hold it. Here's one of the studs with a little bit of thread lock on it. I'll reach up in here and do the top one first. It's a lot easier to just get a stud up in there and thread it on than trying to do the whole thing. We'll fast forward as he puts the other stud in place. Now the stud's on there. You can just feed the gasket up and then take my valve, and put it up into place. That's probably the most challenging part. Then I'm just going to secure it on there with a couple of nuts rather than the bolts. We'll fast forward as he puts the other nut in place and then tightens both of those up.
That shiny silver cylinder up there is your idle air control valve. You can see it's all set with the new nuts and studs and everything. It's tightened up. Now you want to go back from up top and then just reconnect the harness.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.